Kodak T-Max P3200
#GrainIsGood
Kodak T-Max P3200 shot in low light.
Where to start with T-Max P3200… the fact that it’s expensive or the fact that it’s lying about it’s speed… Let’s start with how it handles instead.
Click on the photos below to view larger.
Though this films speed make off camera flash tricky, flashlights can make for interesting lighting.
What to Expect Out of T-Max P3200
Let’s start with the basics, it’s a high speed film with a lot of grain to it. That isn’t to say grain is a bad thing. Detail live inside grain after all. P3200 is the perfect film for street photography at night or shooting a concert. I would even consider this if I wanted to stop motion in a fast paced environment like sports.
The concept that grain is bad stops people from shooting many of these high speed films, when reality is they capture the moments slower films can’t. Compared to films like Tri-X or HP5, this film has a lot of grain. I also find it to be somewhat soft for a T-Max film stock, but it’s got plenty of sharpness for anything you really need. Contrast is very high in my experience developing in D76, and it provides an image that can best be described as “grungy.” Also expect some… curled negatives. I have yet to have a roll developed and not require a week of heavy flattening with books on the negative sleeve to stop them from becoming an inedible fruit roll up. If you scan at home, just be aware of this. Also, some cheaper film scanners may over sharpen the film, making it look nasty at best.
This is a fast film as well. This is good for stopping action, but it is also the downfall of this film. It doesn’t like cloudy days with wide apertures. This can make getting shallow depth of field portraits difficult in bright lighting conditions. Cloudy days on the other hand work much better, but don’t expect photos with tons of bokeh.
This film stock only comes in 35mm rolls of 36 exposures. If you are looking for a low light film to print big, this may not be the film for you.
Bright sunny days are this films enemy, but cloud days pair quite well.
Why T-Max P3200?
You can always push a film to a higher speed, but T-Max is a film that is designed to be pushed to 3200. That’s right, it’s rated speed isn’t the actual speed of the film. T-Max P3200 is actually an 800 speed film with great pushing ability. The P in P3200 actually stand for Push. With that being said, you are still pushing a film and with that comes the penalties of any roll of film being pushed.
IT does a better job than most holding onto shadow and highlight details, but not great compared to most film shot at box speed. The grain can also muddle up some details. It also doesn’t recover well, so make sure your exposure is as spot on as possible. That being said, I would rather shoot this at a concert as opposed to Tri-X pushed to 1600 or 3200. You will get much better results in the long run when compared to most other pushed films.
The Ways I Use T-Max P3200
Would you believe me if I said this was one of my favorite portrait films. If it is a grungy shoot, then I’m all over this film like a child at a candy shop. It makes skin feel soft despite being grainy, and it gives an edge to the print that just feels like a part of an underground punk scene. Use a softer lens (I like the Zeiss Planar 50mm 1.4) to get a dreamy yet gothic print.
This film is a staple for black and white concert photography. Grab a roll and find a bar concert to guarantee a good time. The contrasty and aggressive look accents the performers well. It also captures enough details, but the added grain helps to cover up some mistakes that may come through from slower shutter speeds. When I have used this at concerts I clean the film, then leave it out to dry in the open to collect dust spots. It adds a dirty and gritty look to the image that feels natural compared to adding it in post. I then clean the negatives after scanning and dry them in a dust free space to be stored again. It sounds counter intuitive, but the less you can do in post, the more natural it feels.
I also love it for street photography at night. It gives this gothic feel to the photos, and really helps them stand out. It’s a great choice for low light photography in old and abandoned places, and a great artistic choice for fine art prints as well.
T-Max is a low light film, and it will shine best in low light situations.
For indoor low light photos with limited lighting, this has become one of my favorite portrait films.
When scanning, use a higher quality scanner. Sometimes the over sharpened results can take away from the image.
The cons of T-Max P3200
Well… let’s start at the beginning… it’s expensive. This film regularly sells for about 13 bucks a roll US. That’s a lot of cheddar for 36 exposures. It also only comes in one flavor: 35mm. This single film size means printing large can get messy quick. Very quick actually. I’ve printed some exposures at 16x20 with okay results, and by okay i mean the client was happy with it. These larger sizes can take away from the print very quickly when the grain becomes more apparent than the object it portrays.
Then there is the curling of the film. Holy cow, it curls a lot. This can be solved by flattening the negatives in a book or the like. The problem comes in when you need the scans sooner rather than later. Using a good scanner is a must. Lower end or cheaper scanners will give you film an overly grainy look. I’ve noticed this more with P3200 as opposed to almost any other film. In the photo of the two guitarist, you can see how the scanner really destroyed the feeling of this film. The noise comes off almost digital on the cheaper scanners I’ve used with this film, but if you use a V500, V550, V600, or any of the higher end epson scanners like the V800 this hasn’t been a problem for me. It’s a situation where you use might vary, but it’s something I feel has to be mentioned from experience.
Enough babbling, what’s the verdict?
It’s not an easy question to answer. This is a film that doesn’t work well as a general purpose film. It’s a film that needs to be shot and used with a reason. It also is expensive, so if you are a beginner then this isn’t the film for you. There is also Ilford’s Delta 3200, which is natively a 3200 speed film. It’s also cheaper. Comparing Deltal to T-Max is personal preference, and you will have to decide on that one. In the end I recommend this film stock for those who need high speeds in low light, and that’s about it. This isn’t a beginners film, or a all around film. It’s a purpose made film for specific reason, and this film looks great for those reasons.
Leaving scratches and dust on the negative can add to the grungy punk look for concerts. With P3200, it can really add to the underground feel.
Nonsensical Ratings and Scores
Grain: 10 out of 10! There is a ton of it, and it looks great. This score is about grain quality, not quantity.
Detail: 5 out of 10. It’s always been a softer film for me, but that could be for many reasons.
Shadow and Highlight Recovery: 6 out of 10. It’s surprising what can be recovered, but it falls apart quickly.
Price: 4 out of 10. Its expensive, but it isn’t a total failure as it is a film that is for specific uses, not general purpose.
Personal Score: 7 out of 10. It’s expensive, sure, but it creates an amazing image when it’s used for it’s intended purpose.
Final Verdict: 32 out of 50. This score is entirely arbitrary, and the only one who can decide if it’s the right film or not is you.
Remember, these scores are pointless, as it’s up to you to decide if this film is right for you or not. In my opinion, it’s a great film for its intended purpose, and that’s it. It isn’t a great studio film or everyday film. Use it in low light though, and hot damn is it a fantastic film to shoot.